Since Simons debuted his Fall 2012 couture collection for Dior sometime ago, I've been trying to decide if I actually like the set, or whether I was sorely missing the cuckoo, over-the-top brilliance of John Galliano.

Because, isn't that exactly what we've come to expect from couture in general, and from Dior in particular - a spectacle of froth and fashion made solely for the uber elite? 

I loved most, if not all of Galiano's collections for Dior, and like many others, I bemoaned the day when he was unceremoniously ousted from his perch. But I have to admit that for each lovely collection he sent down the runway, I couldn't help but think, "who really wears these 'unwearable' garments?"

Getting back to Raf Simons' recent interpretation of the Dior aesthetic through his midcentury lens, one can say the exact opposite thing - it's all so wearable. Maybe even too wearable and not precious enough to be considered couture?

Which, after a week or so of deliberation, I've finally decided this isn't a bad thing at all. Why shouldn't couture be comprised of wearable, albeit finely constructed garments done in the made-to-measure mold? 

I want to believe this was the original intent of the early couture designers, and that Simons has found a way to retain that essence without bastardizing the craft through unnecessary frills; see his black-and-iris floral applique ballgown for a  lesson in reserved adornment. 

He's found a deceptively simply route to making couture desirable in the real sense, and not just in terms of an editorial spread.

And I quite like it...

 

NB Images courtesy Style.com

The Volume

  • Au Courant Vol. 02
  • MODERNISM & DE STIJL
    Edwin Jacobs, director of Centraal Museum Utrecht
     
    RIETVELD'S MODEL APARTMENT
    Looking around Gerrit Rietveld's modern space 
     
    ISA GENZKEN AT STEDELIJK
    Curator Martin van Nieuwenhuyzen on the artist's retrospective
     
    PETER ALEXANDER
    In studio with the Los Angles sculptor
      
    Works by Nadia Huggins, Monika Holzer alongside Rebecca Martin, Mark Jason-Weston, and Nick Wilkins. Literary writings by L.T. Harris, Caroline Mackenzie, and Breanne Mc Ivor.
     
    With Astier de Villatte, HER swimwear, Mariage Frères, Hôtel de NELL, La Garconne, Cahiers d'Art, and Rosemanclub.
     
    By Lisa-Marie Harris.
     
  • Buy Now

Of Interest

Astier de Villatte Incense and Pottery
Astier de Villatte

Fine Japanese incense blends and hand-crafted pottery from the Parisian home wares maison.
Details
Japanese made eyewear from Rosemanclub
Rosemanclub Eyewear

Japanese made eyewear inspired by classic shapes, from Thailand's Rosemanclub Eyewear.
Details
Mariage Frères Thé Maison
Mariage Frères Thé

Exquisite loose leaf, speciality, and blended herbal teas from the longstanding Parisian Maison.
Details
Gerrit Rietveld Furniture Design
Hôtel de NELL, Paris

An understated, modernist 5-star hotel & spa with a minimalist design outlook in the heart of Paris.
Details